The first time I visited New York City, I couldn't get over how Manhattan really was everything I'd expected it to be. I think I had seen so many movies and TV shows, postcards and snow globes, purses and t shirts with New York featured prominently, that it had kind of become unreal to me. Like it was this very famous fictional character, a caricature of the "real" New York City. But then I stepped out of the airport and our shuttle driver spent an hour screaming obscenities at cabbies, I was nearly run over by a flood of brightly colored yellow taxis when I crossed the street, the Empire State Building stood grey and imposing amongst a skyline of other grey buildings, and Times Square was just as bright and obnoxious as it had ever seemed to be. It was almost disconcerting just how unreal the "real" New York City felt.
Rome was very similar to New York in that regard. Just as expected, there were speeding scooters whizzing up and down every street, the cars all crowded onto the street with no regard for lanes or traffic direction, walking out of the Metro stop the Colosseum rose before us, towering and majestic behind a sea of parked cars and souvenir vendors. The buildings were covered in the graffiti, the Italians were passionate and effusive in their speaking and gestures. There were crumbling columns, statues and temples around every corner and beautiful, fading frescoes painted above glaring green pharmacia signs. I spent our four days in Rome trying to wrap my mind around the fact that we weren't in a theme park, we weren't in a restaurant designed to look like an Italian trattoria, and yes, I really am standing inside of the Pantheon.
I think part of what made it so difficult to fall instantly in love with Rome, was the highly surreal quality that those first four days took on. Once I adjusted to the fact that I really was walking the streets of Italy, and not just a really great reproduction, it made it a little easier to truly appreciate all that we were seeing and experiencing each day.
Tip #1: If you are planning a trip abroad and have little to no previous experience in that region, use the TripAdvisor forums. I didn't post often, and I will warn that there are some cantankerous bastards that can attack at the most bizarre provocation, but use the search feature to find trip reviews, suggestions for things to pack, and absolutely, without a doubt, believe in the hotel reviews and rankings. During the planning of our trip, I didn't use a single guidebook--just TripAdvisor and an Excel spreadsheet. Our itinerary for each city turned out nearly perfect, and all of our hotels turned out to be even better than expected.
In Rome, we stayed at the Hotel Alimandi Vaticano, and fantastic doesn't even begin to cover it. Our room was stunning--marble floors, a view of the entrance to the Vatican Museum, spacious bathroom, comfortable bed, and a bottle of wine welcoming us to Rome. The breakfast buffet was by far the most impressive of all the hotels we stayed at on our trip. There were multiple meat options, eggs, fruits, vegetables, breads, cheeses and a number of different juices and teas. In a country of pastry and cereal hotel breakfasts, we really hit the jackpot. The location was perfect for us, as I mentioned that it was across the street from the Vatican, where we were planning to spend two long mornings, and it was just two blocks from a metro line that ran almost everywhere else we needed to go.
Tip #2: You DO NOT need to rent a car to get around Italy. I'm sure there are benefits to having your own mode of transportation, but I honestly cannot even begin to imagine trying to navigate the nightmarish traffic amongst those death defying Italian drivers. The public transportation is absolutely fantastic, and it really will get you everywhere you need to go (with a few exceptions that I'll talk about more when I get to our final leg of the trip). The taxis are fairly cheap--on par with Manhattan prices--but if you are traveling to or from the train station or airport, be sure to ask the price in advance. We got taken in on our first taxi to the hotel because we ended up with a "car and driver" rather than basic taxi and ended up paying 75 Eur for the 30 minute trip. We learned out lesson pretty quickly after that. The trains and metro are extremely punctual--we only had one delay the entire trip, and we used the trains every time we changed locations--are really remarkably clean and fairly easy to navigate even for a non-Italian speaker.
Our first morning out and about, we went to the Colosseum and The Forum, using a guide from Angel Tours. I cannot recommend Angel Tours highly enough. We used them three times in Rome, and each tour guide is guaranteed to be a native English speaker and all of them had extensive knowledge of their topics and a great deal of love for their beautiful country. As I mentioned before, as soon as you step foot out of the Coloseo metro stop, there the Colosseum stands, towering above you in all of its glory, and it is quite an awe inspiring moment. However, the Forum was hands down my favorite stop along the tour, as it is just packed with history. From the place where Julius Caesar's body was buried and flowers are still placed each year on the Ides of March, to the Temple of the Vestal Virgins where the light of Rome was never allowed to expire, to the deep ridges left by the chariot wheels along the streets, the whole place was just teeming with history.
After our guided tour (which I highly recommend, the Forum being extremely overwhelming and meaningless otherwise as there are no explanatory placards, and all of the signs with the names of each ruin are in Italian), we wandered over to Palatine Hill which is where legend has it that the Romulus and Remus were discovered by the wolf who kept them alive so that Romulus could go on to found Rome, and where Caesars Augustus, Tiberius and Domitian built their palaces so that they would be in the center of Rome and have enviable seats to watch the games at races at Circus Maximus which basically comprised their front yard. The ruins were interesting, and the flora was extremely beautiful, but I would only recommend Palatine Hill if you have time to spare after fitting in all of the other "must sees". Otherwise, you can get a lovely photo op view of the ruins from Circus Maximus.
Tip #3: If you only have time for one art museum, aside from the Vatican Museum, make it the Borghese Gallery. Admittedly, it is a bit of a chore to visit the museum, as you MUST have your reservation in advance, MUST show up 30 minutes early to pick up your tickets, MUST check all of your bags before entrance, and MUST be in and out of the Gallery in 2 hours, but it is so completely worth navigating all of that red tape and 2 hours is actually the perfect amount of time to take it all in. The rooms are absolutely stunning, even if you took all of the statues away completely, and then when you add in all of the Berninis, Carravaggios, and Titians... it's just breathtaking. I highly recommend renting an audio guide, as once again, most of the explanatory placards are in Italian, and it's always far more interesting to have a clue as to what you're looking at.
The next day, we showed up bright an early at the Vatican for the much anticipated Scavi Tour. I had emailed the Scavi Office a few months earlier to make our reservation, and we showed up just in time, after having a little difficulty finding our way to the Holy Office Gate. (How phenomenal is that name?) If you have a few extra hours in your itinerary to fit in the Scavi Tour, you really must. We went deep underneath St. Peter's Basilica and walked amongst mausoleums that were thousands of years old, and still in remarkable condition after being buried beneath the Vatican for all of those years. I was also shocked at how moved I was to see what is thought to be the bones of St. Peter. I'm not Catholic, but you really don't have to be to see those shreds of purple cloth, hear the soft strains of music playing, and really feel something while standing amongst the pilgrims who are kneeling to say a prayer with tears running down their cheeks.
We didn't want to Vatican ourselves out that day, so after a brief rest back at our hotel, we hauled ourselves over to Circus Maximus, the Santa Maria in Cosmedin to stick our hands into La Boca della Verite (or the Mouth of Truth to you English speakers!), and then ended up in Trastavere for lunch.
Tip #4: Everywhere you travel, whether it's Italy, Germany, Tokyo, or Boise, Idaho, try to take a moment to get off the beaten path and not only see the sights and do the museums, but really experience the culture. I've heard that the neighborhood of Trastavere can get a little touristy at peak season times, but when we were there, we felt like we'd taken a step back in time. This is the Italy that restaurants try to recreate with the crumbling stucco, climbing vines, rusty bicycles leaning against the corner of a building, laundry hanging out on the balcony, little old women with the head scarfs on their way back from church or the market. It was absolutely the definition of quaint, and even with Colby's stellar navigation skills, the narrow, winding streets were delightfully impossible to figure out.
After a delicious lunch of bruschetta, pizza, and tiramisu, we began the walk back to the heart of Rome when we just happened to run into the Pope. No, really! Well, it didn't quite work out that way, but when we were walking along the river, we began to see a large number of polizia in their fancy dress, and then a group of people hovering behind barricades next to one of the larger bridges. Being the sheep that we are, Colby and I decided to hover around for a bit to find out what was going on, and come to find out, Pope Benedict XVI was on his way over to give a talk at the church on the opposite side of the river. So, of course, since we weren't on a tight time line, we decided to stick around and wave at the Pope. Sure enough, about an hour later the streets were cleared, a motorcade began passing by, and then in a shiny black sedan, the Pope sat in the backseat, windows down with a pleasant smile on his face and a graceful, pope-like wave for everyone. Unfortunately, my designated cameraman got some spectacular photos of the top of the car, but if you look very carefully at the one below, you can just make out the Pope in his bright whites waving from the backseat.
Eventually we made our way over to the Trevi Fountain, where we tossed our obligatory coins and then wandered over to the Pantheon for our second Angel Tour.
Tip #5: Angel Tours offers a free 30 minute tour of the Pantheon every night during the peak season (check their website for more details), and you do not have to sign up in advance. We just showed up at 7:00 pm, looked for a tour guide holding up an Angel umbrella, and then got a nice little overview of the Pantheon. The coolest part of the experience happened when we were inside the church and a men's choral group just randomly showed up, assembled around the center of the circular building and began singing. The acoustics were amazing, and it was really the perfect way to cap off our day of sightseeing. Or so we thought.
After our tour, we walked over to the Piazza Navona where we discovered the main Four Rivers Fountain covered in scaffolding (a theme for our trip--it seems that all of Italy is under scaffolding for repairs during the off season), so after just a quick walk around, we decided on dinner in one of the streets off of the Piazza.
Tips #6 and #7 go kind of hand in hand here: In Italy, you must ASK for the check when you are ready to leave. We thought that when we finished dessert and then refused coffee, the bill would just show up as it does here in the states. Well, we thought wrong. In Italy, it is considered very rude to rush customers out, and most waiters will not bring you the check until you ask for it. Easy enough once you know this, but if you don't, it is highly possible that you will spend 45 minutes at your table, wondering why you're being ignored. Once we got the hang of it and asked for il conto, per favore, it was quite late and we were more than ready for bed. But tip #7 is that the metro shuts down at 11 pm.
Surprise! And so we walked from Piazza Navona, over to the Spanish Steps (the obelisk at the top of the steps in front of the church was under scaffolding--of course) to catch the metro at the Spagna stop, but it was closed. Thinking it was a fluke we walked back to the Barberini stop, catching a nighttime view of the Trevi along the way. When we found out that it too was closed, we took the hint and just made the hour long walk back to our hotel with much grumbling and wincing with each painful footstep. In retrospect, it really was a beautiful moonlit, nighttime walk of Rome, almost romantic if it hadn't been for our limping gait and constant yawns.
We woke up the next morning, still exhausted and sore from the night before, but we had to meet our Angel tour guide at the Vatican. The Angel tour was perfect for our needs--if you want to spend more time leisurely exploring all that the Museum has to offer, you may want to do the Vatican on your own with the audio guide. But our tour was a little over 3 hours and we had a nice overview of St. Peter's Square, got to stand in a much shorter line for the Vatican Museum, a great tour of the museums, the Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter's Basilica. At that point, we were completely worn down, and the weather had taken a turn for the worse, so any longer than that and I probably would have broken down in tears.
That afternoon we went to Castel San Angelo, the round fortress that is now used by the Pope for safety in case of emergency.
Tip #8: Don't go to Castel San Angelo. Seriously, don't waste your time. Particularly on a day when you've just seen the Laocoon, the Colossal Head of Augustus, and the freaking Sistine Chapel. Nothing will be able to compare to that, particularly a crumbly old fortress with a terrible audio guide and reproduction furniture from the 18th century. It's possible that halfway through the tour, when you see that there are still 17 more points of interest on your audio guide tour map, you will look at your husband, try not to cry and whimper, "Fuck this." Instead, just head back to your hotel, elevate your throbbing, abused feet, eat some gelato and fall asleep to the soothing tones of BBC World News anchors.
And that brings us to the end of my time in Rome. I know this was incredibly long, so I really do commend you if you made it all the way through. Just think of it this way: When you do get to go to Rome some day, you will know not to waste your time at Castel San Angelo, and all the rest of those slackers that gave up halfway through will be sitting in a corner of the Pope's chambers, crying into their guidebook because they can't handle looking at one more crap fresco.
And you'll also know that by far the tastiest and most reasonably priced gelato in Rome, actually the best we found in Italy, can be found at the Gelateria Millennium on Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2/a, about a 10 minute walk from the Vatican Museum entrance, on your way to the Cipro metro station. A huge array of flavors, a delightfully creamy consistency, and incredibly generous portions. Go to Rome, go to the Gelateria Millennium, and then love me forever. You will not be sorry.
If you still haven't had enough pictures, a few more can be found here.