Italy Is A Dream That Keeps Returning For the Rest of Your Life

So, something which hasn't been discussed at much length on this website is the fact that I recently took a two week trip to Italy.  I know you've all probably been wondering where I've been and what I've been doing what with all the lack of any reference to this very sudden, spontaneous trip.  You see, I just didn't want it to look as though I was rubbing it all in your faces what with constant fretting over packing lists, my lack of knowledge of the Italian language, and how I would ever manage to eat gelato seven times a day and still manage to fit into my pants.

Although, upon further perusal of recent blog entries, it does seem as though I've mentioned Italy once or twice.  Or seventeen trillion times.  In which case, I suppose it would be remiss of me to not bring you up to speed on whether or not I managed to properly communicate my desire for frozen Italian dairy products while wearing the very same pants I remembered to pack before midnight on the evening prior to our departure.  I wouldn't want you to lose sleep at night wondering.

A general overview of my trip might be a good way to start, and over the next week, I'll go into more detail on our daily adventures with my own personal do's and don'ts and nifty tips (pirated from Rick Steves) that may or may not be interesting to anyone aside from my mother.  Because it's her job to be interested.  Or, at the very least, to convincingly feign interest.

I'm finding that the more time that passes since our time in Italy, the more fondly I remember our time there.  It's not that I was utterly miserable for the duration of the trip, but there was definitely a level of adjustment that I felt it was necessary to make that I'd never noticed on any of my other trips outside of the United States.  The one key difference between this and my other trips abroad was that Italy was the first non-English speaking country I've visited.  I did find that most Italians, even in the smaller towns we visited, did speak English, but it was the first time I'd ever been completely surrounded by a country full of people speaking a foreign language.  Although I will say that I had almost as much trouble comprehending a Scottish accent as I did the Italian language.

Italy was also just as dirty as I've always heard.  Everywhere you look there's an ancient Roman ruin or priceless piece of art, and everywhere you look there's graffiti and black streaks from the heavy pollution.  Luckily, we weren't there during peak tourist season, so, with the exception of Naples (where there is currently a rubbish crisis) trash wasn't a huge problem.  The final element that led to my initial disenchantment was the fact that we were stalked across the country by a rain cloud and a cool front.  Every single time we arrived in a city, the previously lovely, sunny skies were overtaken by clouds, and on the day of our departure the sun would be back in full force with promises for beautiful spring weather over the course of the next week.  It got to be a bit discouraging after the first week.

But even with all of those hurdles to overcome, Italy still managed to weasel its way into my heart.  I can't deny that the fact that we ate three filling, starch filled meals a day, along with a heaping serving of gelato each afternoon, and dessert every night without gaining a pound may have contributed just a smidge to this ever growing affection.  But damn, we walked our asses off.  If I maintained my current eating habits and just walked half as much as we did every day while we were in Italy, I'd easily lose five pounds in a week. 

And that lifestyle showed on those skinny minnie Italians.  I will admit, I expected the people to be a bit more glamorous after all the talk I'd heard about how painfully stylish Italian men and women are.  We saw a lot of horrible 80s fashions, clunky white tennis shoes, and puffy, androgynous winter coats, so I would say that while Italians are certainly fashionable, there is a lot to be desired in the glamour department.  The one trend that did start to grow on me was the boots over jeans look.  All of the young women in Italy spent their mornings tucking their pants into their boots--some a little more successfully than others.  At the beginning of the trip, I was still firmly anti-boots over jeans, but by the end of two weeks, I've got to tell you, I was digging it!  If you want to blend in, that's the way to go.  Just don't come crying to me when your feet are utterly destroyed after two hours on those brutal cobblestones.

I was also surprised at how quickly I began picking up on the language.  On our first day in Rome, I was joking with Colby about how when I got home I would write a book entitled, How to Get By in Italy Using Only Four Words, but by the end of the trip we were deciphering menus and signs and I was learning to form semi-coherent sentences.  We still couldn't understand a thing anyone was saying, but every now and then we picked up a "Ciao" or "l'ora".

But even more than the endless gelato, mozzarella, and decent red house wine, I loved the endless history.  You couldn't swing a cat without hitting a crumbling marble column or ancient Roman statue.  Art or architectural elements that would have been under lock and key, protected by state of the art security systems here in America were displayed on open air patios in random piazzas.  I spent nearly two weeks straight with a pain in the back of my throat, in constant awe of the history that surrounded me.  Names that had before just been words in textbooks suddenly sprang to life as I gazed at Michelangelos, Donatellos, Raffaelos, DaVincis--the whole Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle contingent was out in full force.

I swallowed tears of awe as I leaned against a fallen pillar in the forum that Julius Caesar may well have brushed against in his lifetime, tears of sadness as I crossed the threshold into a home that had once been owned by a wealthy Pompeiian whose money couldn't save him from his tragic fate, tears of gratefulness as I gazed out across the landscape of Florence, taking in all of it's glorious Renaissance beauty.

Would I want to live there?  No, probably not.  Although I might consider it if the scooters were outlawed.  But was it an absolutely magical place to visit?  A place that I could happily return to time and time again?  Absolutely, definitely, without a doubt

.

"For us to go to Italy, and to penetrate into Italy, is like a most fascinating act of self-discovery--back, back down the old ways of time.  Strange and wonderful chords awake in us, and vibrate again after many hundreds of years of complete forgetfulness."  D.H. Lawrence

(title quote by Anna Akhmatova)

Comments

[Caro]

You just confirmed every reason I want to travel to so many different places - the history, the culture, the beauty - there's so much to take in! I can't wait to hear about your trip in even more detail :)

[carlo]

Hi i'm Carlo from Italy... things that you wrote about my country are really touching. Talking about the "androgynous winter coats" i might say that if you live 200 days a year with the sun and at least 25° it's just normal if you feel cold :P. and talking about fashion... well you can't pop around the town dressed with wedding clothes! we're just fanatic about fashion when we hang out. Bye|

[1218blog]

Thanks for the Italy info. I love hearing about places from "real" people. When I read those travel guides, they are always so glorified and wordy. Just tell me the everyday things please and I'll be happy. I look forward to more!

[Jass]

Italy sounds lovely, even in cold. :-)

Welcome back chica!

[Deutlich]

Man... those pictures look gorgeous! I LOVED Italy when I went.

I need to go back!

[Miriam]

Please tell me you went to amphitheaters and tested out their natural acoustics? :) That's all I would do if I went to Italy.

[Old Warrior]

I think Carlo is talking about 25 centigrade which is 77 Fahrenheit.

[The Incubator]

Ahhh, sigh, can I go next time? I always took you with me on our good trips! And when's the last time I feigned anything -- with you, that is!

[Operation Pink Herring]

I am a total sucker for ancient history, and Rome blew me away. It's just amazing to stand in front of the same buildings that people did thousands of years ago. Now you've got me choked up too!

[Larissa]

I swear, every time I see people's vacation pictures that include food, I want to immediately hop on a plane and go eat some of that deliciousness.

[slynnro]

I felt the same way about fashion in Paris- I was none too impressed with the people or the shops (beyond ya know, Louboutin, Dior, and Vuitton- the stores where normal people shop? GAH!) But I only ate bread and chocolate souffle in Paris and in 5 days my pants were falling off.

[katelin]

Looks like such a great trip! I'm just a little bit jealous :)

[Erin]

Oh, your trip sounds lovely! Now I think I need to go...

[sophie]

Sounds marvelous! Glad you had fun. I could certainly eat my way across Italy!

[Becky]

I love Roman history, so I really liked some of those pictures you posted and talking about the history. I've always heard that fashion is key for Milan more so than other cities.

[Katie]

What a fabulous trip!! I went to Italy when I was a little girl, but of course I barely remember it. Your pictures have convinced me that I must get back there soon!!

[Tipp]

That is so amazing! I am so glad you had such a wonderful time! I am so in awe of history myself and usually choose trips around stories from the past that inspire me the most.

It is amazing to hear your stories!

[Michelle & the City]

you have officially made me want to go! although ireland is still my #1 choice :)

[Fraulein N]

Oh, you lucky duck! Now I wanna go more than ever!

[E.P.]

I'm happy it weaseled its way into your heart. Now, I want to hear about some of the adventures! Did you happen to hit up any of my old haunts?

[Mandy]

Your pictures are absolutely gorgeous, and I am so jealous! :) So glad to hear of all the wonderful memories made!

D was born in Italy and lived abroad (Italy and Scotland) until he was 5 or 6. He's also done a bit of traveling in the Med as an adult, of which I am also jealous. :) One day...

[RisibleGirl]

Here's the only thing I didn't like about Italy. Using a hole in the ground restroom. I'd never done that before and believe that it's a few steps down from the porta-potty.

Ick- ick and ICK! I was so scared that my clothing would touch the ground where YOU KNOW people got messy with their elimination of whatever.

[Anne]

I love your recounting of your trip, part 1!
I thought you might want to know that there is a super duper gelato place near Pike Place Market (you've probably already heard about it) whose name completely escapes me. I've heard they do nice coffees too but i have actually tried the handmade gelato.....

I will find the name and get back to you....

anne